The pride of Angkor Wat:
Striking bas-reliefs
embellish almost every surface within the main temple – walls, columns,
lintels, roofs and, most stunning of all, the inner wall of the second
enclosure, where a bas-relief frieze stretchers for half a mile (0.8 km) around
the perimeter.
Most of the bas-reliefs date back to the
12th century, with some later additions. Intended to be instructional, they depict
heroic scenes from the great Hindu epics of the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Here, mighty battles rage between demons and
gods; Vishnu rides a great mythical bird, the garuda, and slays demon enemies
as they approach him on all sides; and the legendary Battle of Lanka is told in
a series of beautifully carved scenes, complete with monkeys, monsters and
giants.
Elsewhere in this remarkable gallery,
rewards and punishments are dealt out in the 37 heavens and 32 hells of Indian
traditions. In the southwest section are
historical scenes from the reign of Suryavarman II, including one of him on an
elephant, leading his army in a triumphal battle march, fanned by his faithful
servants and shaded by 15 umbrellas.
Most striking of
all is a large frieze illustrating the legend of the Churning of the Ocean of
Milk, in which gods and devils battle for possession of the elixir of eternal
life. In the middle of the frieze, a
snake is coiled around Mount Mandara. On
one side of the mountain, a team of 88 devils tugs at the snake’s head, and on
the other side a team of 92 gods pulls at its tail, with Vishnu urging them
on. According to the legend, the two
teams took it in turns to pull on the snake.
This action rotated the mountain back and forth, churning up the ocean
so that it eventually releases the precious elixir, which the gods drank,
securing their immorality.

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