Wild Weather:
Summers at the lake are relatively
short. The warmest month is August, when
the air temperature reaches 18C (64F) on the lake and 25C (77F) on the
surrounding land. It stays warm in
September. In early summer and late
autumn, fogs are frequent.
High winds lash the lakeshore
during autumn – at this time of year there are, on average, an incredible 18
storms a month. The winds blow form
different directions, each with a distinct character and local name. The shelonnik blows from the southeast, the
verkhovik form the northeast. As the
verkhovik wind strengthens, the water turns almost black, with white-capped
waves that push towards the southern shore.
The kultuk blows form the southwest, accompanied by grey, leaden skies
and low cloud. The barguzin howls down
the valley of the Barguzin River on the east side of the lake; the sarma from the Sarma River flowing in from the
west, can reach hurricane strength. The
equally ferocious gornaya appears suddenly, causing 6m (20ft) high waves to
break on the cliffs along the eastern shore.
Clearly, Lake Baikal can be a stormy place. Even so, on average there are 2,277 hours of
sunshine each year similar to Melbourne, Australia, and parts of the Bordeaux
region in France. The driest and sunniest
place is Zagli Bay at the southern end of Olkhon Island, the largest of Lake
Baikal’s 27 islands.
In winter the lake is transformed
into a white wonderland. Mists rise from
the surface in December and the surrounding vegetation is covered with hoar
frost. By late January the surface water
is frozen solid to a depth of about a metre (3ft), and the air temperature can
drop to -27C (-17F), even plunging to -39C (-38F) in the surrounding
countryside. The ice is unusually clear,
so in the shallows you can still see right through to the bottom of the
lake. As dusk approaches, the sinking
sun rays colour the ice golden, then pink, then finally red.

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