Big Sur Coast:
A magnet for writers and artists, home
to rare plants and animals, California’s Big Sur is intimidating, yet
inspiring. Since 1937 it has been served
by a road that no one thought could be built.
Stretching for 90 miles (145 km)
between Carmel and Cambria is the slice of California coast known as Big
Sur. Even the name sounds magical, a
polyglot of Spanish and English meaning ‘big south’. Gazing south from Carmel, it is easy to see
how settlers arrived at that name: colossal mountains rise straight up from the
Pacific Ocean, some of them weathered into 400m high (1,300 ft) cliffs, often
besieged by monstrous waves. This coast
is a ship-killer, too, a place that skippers avoided lest they fall into its
rocky claws. No wonder pioneers took so
long to trickle down this stretch of coast.
Even today it is largely uninhabited.
Formed at the same time as the Sierra
Nevada to the east, the Santa Lucia Mountains give the coast its geological
backbone and scenic backdrop. A mild
Mediterranean climate is complemented by coastal fog, endowing Big Sur with a
variety of microhabitats from lush redwood forest to arid chaparral. The wildlife is also diverse: migrating grey
whales and monarch butterflies, endangered California condors and sea otters,
coyotes and cougars.
The Spanish arrived in 1770 and
created a mission in Carmel and in the provincial capital, Monetary, but they
shunned the rugged coast further south.
A century later, enterprising Yankees thought Big Sur would yield the
same gold and timber bounty as the rest of California. But the region proved too inaccessible and by
the early 20th century the miners and lumberjacks had left.
Wild beauty:
Big Sur’s dramatic coastline weaves in and out of rocky inlets that are
constantly pounded by the Pacific Ocean.

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